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Bev's Top Wines

SPARKLING WINE

2003 Handley Cellars Estate Anderson Valley Brut Rosé ($36) Milla Handley is better known for her Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer, but this limited-production sparkler relies on her abilities with Pinot to create a headily scented drink. A nose of flowers, pepper cookies and strawberries leads to a lean, stoic wine with lots of structure from 94 percent estate-grown Pinot.

2004 Iron Horse Green Valley Wedding Cuvee ($35) This blend is as close as Iron Horse comes to a Blanc de Noirs, and here winemaker David Munksgard crafted it from 86 percent Green Valley Pinot Noir (Chardonnay makes up the rest). The weight of the Pinot makes it an excellent match for most foods - except wedding cake. A lean, yeasty nose of brioche, Meyer lemon and tangerine leads off, a chalky minerality defines the texture, and the tension between the red and white fruit is palpable.

1996 Iron Horse LD Green Valley Blanc de Blancs ($80) "LD" stands for "late-disgorged," and after nine years, plus another two in the bottle, this all-Chardonnay effort has taken on a depth of the sort rarely found in American sparkling wine. Dusky, yeasty and nutty, it offers brioche, baked apple, fig, sherry and caramel notes, with a silky, voluptuous finish. Stunning. NV Korbel California Brut Rosé ($10) What of those nights when you want bubbly without the ceremony? Korbel mixes Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Gamay and Chenin Blanc to devise this deft, floral effort, full of strawberry and orange blossom. The slightly high dosage provides a crowd-pleasing sweetness. So get off your high horse.

NV Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut Rosé ($27) Roederer's nonvintage Brut is very good, but its Rosé is a hidden strength. Made predominantly of Pinot Noir, with about 40 percent Chardonnay, it harnesses still Pinot for color and up to 20 percent oak-aged reserve wine for depth. The result surpasses many Rosé Champagnes: subtle herbal, raspberry and cherry scents, with slight mushroom and mineral, and a grip to the finish.

2000 Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Anderson Valley Brut ($45) Roederer's vintage-dated reserve remains, consistently, the most impressive sparkling wine in America. This latest, with 53 percent Chardonnay and 47 percent Pinot Noir, opens with a musky snap and aggressively yeasty nose. Subtle berry and forest notes are followed by explosive flavors of dough, citrus and a whole spectrum of red fruit, plus brandy and pie crust. It's all kept in harmony by sharp acidity, which makes for a mouthwatering finish.

NV Schramsberg Vineyards Mirabelle Brut ($20) Schramsberg gets the most credit for its vintage wines, and we adored those. But the nonvintage Mirabelle cuvee was a pleasant surprise this year, a blend of vintages from 2004 to 2001. With 55 percent Chardonnay, there's ripe pear and apple, but the Pinot Noir brings out squeezed orange and clean cranberry, with spun sugar overtones. It's vibrant and just tangy enough to have an edge, thanks to those older reserve wines.

CHARDONNAY

2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley Chardonnay ($25) It's hard to believe this hails from one of Columbia Valley's warmest vineyards given the tart apple overtones and impressively high acidity. Still, it screams, "This is Chardonnay!" Plenty of wood (70 percent new oak) and lees contact give it a well-crafted, rich mouthfeel, along with appealing honey and papaya notes.

2004 Domaine Serene Cote Sud Vineyard Dijon Clones Willamette Valley Chardonnay ($45) From one of seven vineyards on the winery's Jory soils in the southern Dundee Hills, this shows off the best of Oregon Chardonnay from a cooler vintage. A warm nose of coconut, rich oak, cream pie and baked apple tangles with intense, volcanic minerality that cuts through a lees-driven style. Opulent, yes, but always with a dose of restraint and an exquisite texture. 2004 HdV Los Carneros Chardonnay ($55) Winemaker Stephane Vivier has highlighted the strengths of his two bosses: vineyard manager Laurence Hyde and Aubert de Villaine of Burgundy's Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Not an inexpensive wine, it's a serious one that commands notice, with a big minerally nose and radiant fruit. There's warmer notes of guava and coconut but also a Burgundian austerity, plus acidity that harmonizes all the components.

2005 Iron Horse Vineyards Rued Clone Green Valley Sonoma County Chardonnay ($38) Cuttings taken to plant this "clone" in Sonoma's Green Valley weren't a single type but a mix from the Rued vineyard. When these vines die out, says Iron Horse's Laurence Sterling, the unique mix will sadly be no more. In the meantime, the resulting wine is ravishing - light on its feet, with lots of nuance from oak and a snappy tree-fruit profile. Sweet peach and pineapple round it out, with earthy Burgundian notes playing the bass notes.

2004 Landmark Lorenzo Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($48) Several of Landmark's Chardonnays caught our attention, but this one truly stood out - and no surprise. It's a barrel selection from one of the winery's single vineyards, the best of the best. There's ample evidence of those barrels in the toasty bonbon notes, but the luxurious texture and amazingly focused finish give it complexity, along with salty apple and fig notes.

2004 Mayacamas Vineyards Mt. Veeder Chardonnay ($35) Mayacamas' Chardonnays are remarkably long-lived, and this latest is no different. Just a bit of oak adds a slight creamy note, but it's defined by gray minerality, lean citrus, grapefruit and tart apple. It's almost racy, with well-managed white wine tannins.

2005 Taft Street Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($18) Credit this Sebastopol winery for producing such a nuanced effort from the not-exactly-cheap Russian River Valley that's impressively affordable. Full-barrel fermentation gives it a hearty mouthfeel, aided by lots of lees stirring.

2005 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($35) For a winery known for its Pinot Noir, this is a reminder not to overlook white wines. It's a massive thing, 15 percent alcohol and packed with citrus and floral flavors, but with sherry overtones and just 40 percent new oak. For those who like their Chardonnay full-bore, winemaker Bob Cabral answered the call.

SAUVIGNON BLANC AND OTHER WHITES

2006 Benessere Carneros Pinot Grigio ($25) This St. Helena winery prides itself on bringing Italian varieties to Napa Valley, so the use of "Grigio" makes sense. But if most Pinot Grigio is wan stuff, this has far more in common with the Oregon vision of Pinot Gris: subtle tree fruit, on the sweet side, but with a silky texture and buoyant flavors. A remarkably serious wine for a variety that's usually generic at best.

2006 Burford and Brown Lady Grace Lodi Verdelho ($19) Australian Peter Burford turned to Ehler's Vineyard in Lodi for this Portuguese native grape, which has also taken root in Burford's native land. It opens with impressive crisp apricot, nectar and lime curd, then segues to lush tropical notes of papaya and overripe mango, buoyed by a mineral firmness and a citrus pith note toward the end that gives it focus. We're increasingly convinced that Verdelho is Lodi's secret weapon.

2006 Charles Krug Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($18) With Napa Sauvignon Blanc becoming ever more flashy, here's one that manages eloquence and restraint. There's a Loire-like sensibility at play - clean flavors of zesty citrus mixed with warmer fruit like honeydew, and a broad, easy finish. It's refreshing and crisp, more laid-back than its New Zealand counterparts.

2005 DiStefano Columbia Valley Viognier ($22) Here is Viognier in its pure state - made in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation, with grapes from the Willard vineyard in Prosser, Wash. It manages to capture Viognier's tricky balance of intense nectar fruit, bright acidity and a lean, refreshing profile, though it's a bigger wine than it initially lets on.

2006 Esterlina Cole Ranch Riesling ($19) Sole owners of the smallest appellation in the nation (Cole Ranch), the Sterling family farms an impressive patch of Riesling. Their own bottling shone this year, with lots of talc and peach on the nose, slight citrus overtones and an evident finesse. Balanced acidity from this extremely cool site defines the wine and lifts the finish. 2006 Galante Vineyards Carmel Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($25) The best Central Coast Sauvignon Blanc we tasted this year left us wondering if Carmel Valley, with its ocean influences, isn't undiscovered Sauvignon Blanc territory. An effort that blends a tart, bright citrus edge with more tropical guava, cherimoya and sweet pineapple, with some toasty notes, in a style all its own. 2006 Morgan R&D Franscioni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Gris ($17) This varietal is a point of pride for Morgan owner Dan Lee and winemaker Gianni Abate, evident in one of the only single-vineyard Pinot Gris bottlings in the country from a vineyard owned by Ray and Danny Franscioni, across the road from Gary Franscioni's Rosella's Vineyard. There's focused apple, watermelon, peach and white mineral, with a lush, dense palate. Weighty, lively and lip-smacking.

2006 Navarro Estate Anderson Valley Dry Gewurztraminer ($19) After a tough 2005 vintage, this latest bottling marks a quintessential example of the dry Alsatian style that Navarro pioneered in Mendocino's Anderson Valley. A minerality adds nuance to the unmistakable rose and lychee scents, and the lean, high-acid texture leads to a lingering finish. This is a Gewurz that begs for food, which is more rare than you might imagine.

2006 Pacific Rim American Chenin Blanc ($11) There isn't much Chenin Blanc left in Washington, but Randall Grahm's Northwest project probably gets most of it. This vintage is 90 percent from Washington, with California fruit accounting for the rest. Though winemaker Nicolas Quillé is mostly occupied with Riesling, he fought to keep producing this crisp effort, with a breezy nose of fresh-pressed apple and white mineral, and a subtly sweet palate from a deliberate dose of residual sugar.

2006 Palmina Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Tocai Friuliano ($24) Steve Clifton, half of the team at Pinot powerhouse Brewer-Clifton, keeps this Lompoc-based label devoted to Italian varietals as a side project. This take on a native Friulian grape effort, which comes from Clifton's equivalent of an all-Italian varietal estate vineyard, outpaces many of its Italian counterparts. Intense aromas of bitter almonds, white flowers and dense peach, with a gripping finish. The lush texture will really blossom with a bit of time - or decanting.

2006 Pey-Marin The Shell Mound Marin County Riesling ($22) Hardly any wine grapes grow in Marin, and the only thing rarer than Marin Pinot Noir is Marin Riesling. Susan and Jonathan Pey persisted with plantings in their organically grown vineyard. There's no fat in this 11.8 percent dry Riesling: It opens with compressed minerals, highlighted by apple and apricot scents on an almost chalky palate. The lean, sharp flavors are all in harmony.

2006 Rancho Sisquoc Santa Barbara County Sylvaner ($14) Yes, there is Sylvaner still grown in California. This is a notably different twist on the obscure Alsatian variety, with 20 percent Riesling blended in and a bit of sugar left to keep it slightly sweet and approachable. From Flood Family Vineyards outside Santa Maria, owned by the California family that lent its name to San Francisco's Flood Building, this tangy wine offers sweet, floral notes with slight scents of boiled peanut and ginger.

2005 Truchard Carneros Roussanne ($20) Jo Ann and Tony Truchard have an impressive history of growing some of Carneros' best fruit. Their red wines have a subtle elegance, but their efforts with this lesser-known Rhone grape are consistently excellent. Here, a haunting nose of buttercups, ripe mango, lemon and mineral overtones hints at the bright, but still lavishly textured wine. A complex, bright version of a varietal that deserves to be better known. 2006 Van Duzer Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($17) Quite simply, our favorite American Pinot Gris this year, from two blocks in a cool-climate estate vineyard west of Salem, Ore. It takes a moment to open up, but then there's layers of bright lime and green apple offering a sharp-edged profile atop a dense texture on the palate. The finish is snappy and perfectly tuned.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

2004 Charles Krug Peter Mondavi Family Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon ($26) Peter Mondavi's winery has stepped up its game in recent years, and keeps giving us reasons to take notice. The clean lines on this Cabernet and pretty cedar notes are immediately enjoyable. It's rare to find this kind of quality in Napa for this price.

2003 Clos Du Val Oak Vineyard Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon ($62) The long-standing Silverado Trail winery continues to show its best with this estate bottling. Seven percent Cabernet Franc adds an aromatic punch, with heavy dried-branch notes on the nose, plenty of dusty nuance, bright currant and ripe, roasted black fruit.

2004 Corison Winery Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($70) While there are those who find Cathy Corison's wines too polemical - with angular edges and sharp fruit - we vehemently disagree. At under 14 percent alcohol, they may be old-school, but they're also intense and beautifully structured. This latest is quintessential Corison, with impressive aromas of sandalwood and plum, a tight-knit structure with bright fruit, fantastic balance and a warm, rich note to finish.

2004 Dominus Napa Valley Red Wine ($115) Christian Moueix still says he is learning to make great wine in Napa Valley, but after 21 years Dominus has more than found its stride. This is powerful, ageless Cabernet - a classic Bordeaux-like nose of currant, ropy licorice, cigar box, dried herbs and ripe blackberry lead to a lifted, well-defined palate. A graphite hint gives some edge to the long, silky finish, and the broad structure hints at its long life ahead.

2004 Feather Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) Allen Shoup has drawn many winemakers to Washington with his Long Shadows project, but it's Randy Dunn who may be the most interesting choice. What does a Howell Mountain man do in the heart of the Northwest? In this case, create a standard-setting Cabernet packed with dark blackberry flavors and Dunn's trademark tannins. Dunn is on a mission against high alcohol levels, and the 14.2 percent on the label is on the modest side for this sort of wine.

2003 Flora Springs Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) Flora Springs may not be the newest name in Napa, but this classically styled Cab more than holds its own. It's meaty and appealingly rich, with plump blackberry flavors, tobacco and orange zest notes to add an edge.

2004 Helix Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($22) Walla Walla's Chuck Reininger relies on four vineyards for this blend of 94 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 6 percent Cabernet Franc. Helix is technically his second label, but the quality here is dazzling. A strong nose packed with branchy aromas, graphite and blackberry presages luscious, almost viscous, dark fruit that never loses its edge. This much structure is rare in such an affordable Cabernet.

2004 La Sirena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($150) Heidi Peterson Barrett has brought fame to a lot of people with her winemaking, and even her La Sirena label usually draws more attention for its Syrahs and Moscatos. But here you see her abilities with Cabernet through the prism of her own sensibilities. It's still very much one of her wines: deep, almost swimmable fruit. But hints of intense black pepper, olive tapenade, charcoal and cassis play off hearty doses of oak. The net result is refined, with soft tannins and more nuance than most wines of this style.

2004 Round Pond Estate Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) In addition to its olive oils and its Nebbiolo, this Rutherford estate prides itself on plush, impressively ripe Cabernet. This one opens with great graphite and violet overtones, then buoyant cassis matched with dried herb and plenty of oak toast. There's lots of nuance amid a ton of dark fruit that's pushed just to the very edge of ripeness.

2003 Rubicon Estate Rubicon Rutherford ($125) It's not marked as such, but this 95 percent Cabernet flagship of Francis Ford Coppola's portfolio is powerful stuff. Musky, with cardamom, vanilla and gorgeous dark fruit, it has tons of grip and impressive balance and warmth, with a brief cameo by the famed Rutherford dust.

2003 Smith-Madrone Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) The Smith brothers continue to find that fine line between the older, restrained style of Napa Cab and big, lusty doses of fruit that now seem de rigueur. What defines their current release are stand-up Spring Mountain tannins that give structure to a rich palate of black fruit, with scents of tobacco and licorice. It's a wine that will take time to evolve, but that's a sign of a Cab worth holding on to.

2004 Spottswoode Estate St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon ($110) 2004 was a tumultuous year at this historic estate. New vineyard manager Jennifer Williams (now the winemaker) faced uneven ripening and the lowest yields in two decades. Hence the bad news - the 1,500-case production made for even less Spottswoode than usual. The good news? It's extraordinary stuff: a dense, rich pile of black cherry, nuanced raspberry and blackberry, coffee, toast and a full box of exotic spices. The tannins have both eloquence and solid grip, hinting at its long potential ahead.

2003 Terra Valentine Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) Terra Valentine's wines are often tightly wound, but you can taste the promise. Blackberry, cocoa, kirsch and dried mint notes broaden out with some decanting. Stiff tannins will reward up to five years in the cellar, but that Spring Mountain structure is irresistible.

2004 Walla Walla Vintners Sagemoor Vineyard Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) Gordon Venneri and Myles Anderson helped establish Walla Walla's winemaking community. But this single-vineyard effort comes from farther west, near the city of Pasco. A subtle nose of violets and cherries amid sweet oak and cigar box is matched by a sweet, soft palate. The layers of fruit keep evolving in the glass, so give it some time.

MERLOT

2004 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma County Merlot ($19) The Benziger family has been fervent in pushing for new, greener farming practices, including for this wine made from parcels all over Sonoma. Here's good, old-fashioned Merlot. The nose of candied violets and warm cocoa, and a grippy midpalate, make for a refreshing, relatively low-alcohol (13.5 percent) effort that has far more verve than most.

2002 Cafaro Napa Valley Merlot ($22) Joe Cafaro looks for a higher acidity in his wines, and that gives this Merlot a refreshing leanness. There's focus to the structure, with perfumed, leafy scents and plush red fruit, and just a hint of oak presence in the smoky bark notes. At a time when most Merlot is made up to taste like Cabernet, this is a reminder of why it's one of the greatest grapes on its own.

2002 Mayacamas Mt. Veeder Merlot ($35) Bob Travers has always made slightly hard-edged, but long-lived, wines, so it's no surprise he doesn't even consider this ready to drink yet, five years after harvest. It took all that time to mellow the acidity and soften the pronounced tannins, but with just 20 percent new oak, this is fierce mountaintop Merlot, jammed with scents of star anise, dried cherry and oolong, and expressive, rich red fruit.

2004 Pellegrini Cloverdale Ranch Alexander Valley Merlot ($22) Often known for Pinot from its Olivet Lane property, the Pellegrinis also deserve credit for their Cabernet and Merlot from their Cloverdale Ranch property in Alexander Valley. There's subtle dried cherry, pebbles and black tea aromas that preface a juicy, textured wine with plenty of backbone.

2004 Shafer Napa Valley Merlot ($46) Shafer makes big, hefty wines with jammy fruit, and this Merlot, its largest-production wine at 10,000 cases, is no exception. A toasty nose is bolstered by broad flavors of coffee, vanilla, mint and plush back cherry.

2004 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley Merlot ($42) Though Warren Winiarski sold his winery this summer, winemaker Nicki Pruss is still in the house. Merlot may be her hidden talent. It was a pleasure to find so much complexity here. Under 14 percent alcohol, it's musky, with black olive, tar, raspberry and light oak but a solid whack of end tannins.

2005 Trecini Vicini Vineyard Russian River Valley Merlot ($25) Restaurateur John Vicini began growing grapes in 1994 and making his own wine in 1999. Russian River Valley may be Pinot land, but here's evidence of its Merlot potential. A nose of allspice and marzipan is almost Pinot Noir-like. There's currant and cranberry amid black fruit, with a pinpoint finish.

BORDEAUX-STYLE RED BLENDS

2005 Andrew Will Sheridan Vineyard Yakima Valley Red Wine ($47.50) Chris Camarda prides himself on labeling his wines with such famous Washington vineyards as Champoux, but this lesser-known plot in western Yakima Valley outshines the others. Dark and brooding, it offers mint, licorice and perfume from 30 percent Cabernet Franc, while 28 percent Merlot adds a charming tea-leaf overtone.

2004 Chimney Rock Winery Elevage Stags Leap District ($76) Winemaker Elizabeth Vianna was promoted to that post in 2005, during the upbringing of this wine - what the French call (you got it) "elevage." It's big and beefy, with warm black fruit, some subtle oak char and refined grip. Give it five or 10 years to really shine.

2004 Leonetti Cellar Reserve Walla Walla Valley ($110) Leonetti Cellar and the Figgins family have long been a defining force in Washington wine. Though the style has changed a bit over time, quality hasn't wavered. This top-of-the-line selection is beautifully done, with solid lashings of oak in counterpoint with dusty mineral notes and black olive. It's 78 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Petit Verdot accounting for the rest, and all from Mill Creek Upland vineyard, the first time the Reserve has been a single-vineyard wine.

ZINFANDEL

2005 Hendry Hendry Block 24 Napa Valley Primitivo ($31) Though it's essentially the same as Zinfandel, the Primitivo clone here harks back to Italy. This particular block is west of the town of Napa, not far from Carneros, so it's surprising to see it clock in at 15.8 percent alcohol. You'd never know it from the subtle, perfumed sweetness on the nose and solid natural acidity. It's dense and spicy to taste, with sweet chocolate overtones and a robust structure. Could use three years of aging.

2005 Quivira Wine Creek Ranch Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($30) The old head-pruned vines for this wine were in process of being certified biodynamic during the 2005 harvest. A nose of dried herbs is augmented with high-tones of raspberry and currant. Balanced and opulent, it ends on a subtle wood note and hints of kirsch.

2005 Sobon Estate Old Vines Amador County Zinfandel ($13) Among an uneven field of Sierra Foothills Zins, this impressed us both for what was in the bottle - sweet blueberry and plum, spicy overtones plus solid acidity to save Zin from its syrupy doldrums - and the overall package. Balanced, earth-driven Zinfandel for under $15 in a screwcap? Darn straight.

2005 Storybook Mountain Vineyards Napa Estate Mayacamas Range Zinfandel ($30) Jerry Seps proves once again that it is possible to make Napa Valley Zinfandel with subtlety and grace. This latest result offers toasty plum, a bit of herbal dust, oregano and violets, all accented with a bright core of acidity. The more that Zin gets made up beyond rec the more refreshing is this approach.

OTHER RED WINES

2005 J.R. Storey Cielo Grande Vineyard Paso Robles Tempranillo ($18) Tempranillo has had a mixed record in the New World, but this effort from a vineyard in San Miguel, north of Paso Robles, is modest and eminently approachable. There's just a touch of new oak, which allows rubyish cherry and cranberry fruit to shine through, with slightly dusty undertones and a juicy ending.

2003 Lang & Reed Premier Etage Napa Valley Cabernet Franc ($41) Cabernet Franc frequently chases away Cab lovers because of its tendency toward underripe, green flavors. You'll find none of that here. With three years aging before release, this latest vintage from John Skupny, a 2002 Chronicle winemaker to watch, and his wife, Tracy, is dark and smoky as campfire embers, with roasted red cherry, warm oak to round the edges, lots of cassis and a lifted finish amid all that lush fruit.

2004 Langtry Serpentine Meadow Lake County Petite Sirah ($40) From Lake County's Guenoc Valley, here's proof that Petite Sirah can offer subtlety and refinement. It has a slightly floral, talc-like nose, with hints of coffee and chocolate. Buoyant blueberry and spicy blackberry (thank the American oak) are stitched together by a high-acid structure, with just 13.5 percent alcohol. 2005 L'Aventure Estate Cuvee Paso Robles ($75) Stephan Asseo left Bordeaux to have the freedom to blend as he liked in the New World. He's more willing to embrace tradition nowadays - and we were charmed by his varietal Cabernet Sauvignon - but his mix of Syrah and Cabernet, with a touch of Petit Verdot, was a winner.

2003 Martin & Weyrich Paso Robles Nebbiolo ($18) This Central Coast winery makes one of the best American versions of Nebbiolo, the notoriously difficult variety at the heart of Barolo and Barbaresco. The latest release opens with an unabashedly Californian burst of fruit - rather un-Nebbiolo - but nuanced scents of cranberry, tree bark and cherry lozenge telegraph just how good that fruit is. Just 20 percent new oak, and nearly four years age, give it subtlety that far exceeds its price tag.

2003 Peterson Winery Il Granaio Dry Creek Valley Sangiovese ($25) The four years of age are evident here, providing a rubyish Rioja-like buoyancy. Orange-inflected berries are paired with grippy wood tannins. But the solid, sweet fruit never wavers.

DESSERT WINE

2006 Bonny Doon Vineyard California Le Vol des Anges ($30/375ml) Just because Randall Grahm could, he made a late-harvest botrytised Roussanne from the Beeswax Vineyard in Arroyo Seco. The result is puzzlingly revelatory. The buttery, fat notes from low-acid Roussanne mix with the honeyed concentration of noble rot, with flavors of watermelon skin, pumpkin seed and dried pineapple in the balance. That acid offsets a dense weight, and makes it hard to resist. 2004 Chateau St. Jean Belle Terre Vineyard Alexander Valley Select Late Harvest Riesling ($50/375ml) Alexander Valley isn't prime Riesling territory, but the Dick family's Belle Terre plot must be the perfect spot for it. That's where St. Jean has long sourced its select late-harvest wine, notable for its ability to grow with age. The nose gives off oily apricot, peach nectar and intense diesel notes more typical of the German stuff. It's a lavish, honeyed wine, with an edgy broad finish. Viscous, profound and only 9.6 percent alcohol. 2006 Chateau Ste. Michelle Horse Heaven Vineyard Late Harvest Chenin Blanc ($29/375ml) Late-harvest Chenin Blanc was once common in Washington, but it's just the second vintage for the state's largest winery. Hand-harvested grapes make for a galvanizing wine with a firm core of acidity and honeyed hints of botrytis that creep around the edges. It's lean and sappy on the nose, with herbs, dense melon and lime, and an intensely sweet palate.

2002 Lolonis Winery Eugenia Redwood Valley Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc ($32/375ml) Petros Lolonis named this after his mother, Eugenia, and it's a worthy tribute. It pairs concentrated citrus with oak-tinged notes of caramel, mocha and molasses. A long, dense finish never for a moment loses focus.

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